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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.